Give Vrindavan and Mathura two to three days, see Mathura first, then the Yamuna ghats and Vrindavan temples in a calm order. Visit early for aarti, avoid peak festival crowds if you want quiet, and dress modestly with shoes off at shrines. Travellers from distant cities usually take an overnight train. Most first-time visitors pack for Vrindavan as if it were a city break, then notice how...